Pool Advisor - pools.shop 2024-11-21T15:42:38+01:00 Zend_Feed_Writer https://www.pools.shop/en-UK pools.shop uk@pools.shop https://www.pools.shop/en-UK <![CDATA[Pool Winterisation for Intex & Bestway Pools]]> 2023-09-07T00:00:00+02:00 2023-09-07T00:00:00+02:00 https://www.pools.shop/en-UK/info/magazine/winterisation-autumn-is-definitely-coming pools.shop uk@pools.shop https://www.pools.shop/en-UK Winterising your Intex / Bestway pool: dismantle and store or leave it out? The most commonly used method of winterising a pool is to dismantle it and store it away over winter. Dismantling and storing: advantages & disadvantages Advantages The warranty remains intact Taking your pool apart gives you access to otherwise hard-to-reach areas that you can easily clean and check for damage Frost damage is highly unlikely depending on how it is stored Disadvantages Dismantling and reassembling can cause additional wear and tear on the material Can be very time-consuming depending on the model The pool water will have to be completely emptied which is not ideal for the climate or your wallet Mould formation is possible in case of improper storage Winterising an Intex / Bestway pool outdoors: pros and cons Advantages Substantial time savings depending on the model Excess wear and tear of material is avoided Most of the pool water can be reused in the following season No storage space is necessary Disadvantages With almost any Intex or Bestway pool: this voids the warranty / guarantee more expensive than taking it apart and assembling it again as some accessories are necessary for the winterisation process Winterising a pool: Instructions for both methods Winterising requirements differ depending on the type and size of the pool. In case of small pools with a low water volume, it is better to dismantle them and re-assemble in the spring. Larger Intex or Bestway pools in particular, on the other hand, are ideal candidates for winterising and leaving outdoors. If you are still unsure, it might help to read the following two steps to get a better understanding. Let's start with the classic method of dismantling the pool and putting it away in storage over winter. Variant a) Dismantling and storage Particularly in the case of smaller pools, it does not pay off to winterise them and leave them outdoors all winter long. First off, the amount of water that needs to be dumped is small. Secondly, it only takes 5 to 15 minutes to take them part and reassemble them. Step 1: Drain the water Most Intex and Bestway pools have drain valves at the bottom where you can connect a garden hose for draining purposes. For environmental reasons, we recommend that you drain your pool water into the sewer. Furthermore, in many areas, draining pool water into nature is strictly prohibited and there are hefty penalties for breaching the rules. Tip: You can drain your pool easily with an Intex submersible pump. Step 2: Dismantling along with inspection The dismantling process is fairly straightforward. There are only two points we would like to emphasise here: It is important to check the condition of the paint, especially in the case of frame pools by Intex and Bestway. If you find deep scratches, repainting is urgently recommended. This will prevent the formation of rust. Taking deep scratches seriously is of articular importance in case of saltwater pools. The second point is the pool cover. Many pool owners fold it up to reduce the amount of space taken up for storage. Please do not do this! Folding it up will create deep creases which will turn out to be a problem after the winter. Even if it is not optimal, do not fold the pool cover such that it takes up the minimum amount of space. Furthermore, makes sure it is clean and dry before putting it away to reduce the risk of mould formation and frost damage. Step 3: Properly storing your Bestway or Intex pool over winter If possible, store your pool in a dry place. It would also be ideal to keep it from freezing and preventing access to rodents. Note: We regularly see damage caused by rodents chewing on pool liners. Nevertheless, if you do need a new pool liner, we have several in our range. Variation b) Winterising Intex or Bestway pool for outdoors This method is usually recommended in case of large pools. Please bear in mind however that this approach unfortunately voids any warranties. This is because manufacturers and dealers cannot be held responsible for incorrect use. Step 1: Deep cleaning The goal of winterising your Bestway or Intex pool outdoors is not just to make sure that your pool "somehow makes it!" but should also be immediately usable afterwards. If you want to avoid hard-to-remove, caked-on dirt and the formation of disgusting green sludge, please read the following carefully. a) Cleaning the pool yourself Over the course of the pool season, a pool cover will normally accumulate some dirt. Loosen and remove this dirt which is usually organic in nature. Use an alkaline cleaner and leave it on for a few minutes to take effect before cleaning. CAUTION! Important safety advice: Never mix alkaline and acidic cleaners because this could lead to the release of toxic gases! b) Make sure the water is clean Run your filter system for 12 hours and try to filter out as much dirt from the water as possible. If you use a sand filter system with sand or filter glass, you can improve the filtration process with flocculant. All particles that then settle at the bottom should be carefully removed with a pool vacuum cleaner or pool robot. Step 2: Winterise the pool by adjusting the water values Your pool water will not be filtered for the next few months. If you don't make sure the water is clean, microorganisms will multiply massively which can be an unpleasant experience in spring and will entail a lot of cleaning before it can be usable again. So it is better to invest a little extra time to clean it thoroughly at this point rather than spend several unpleasant hours cleaning it after winter. Adjust the pH value to between 7.0 and 7.2. Avoid going below 7.0, as in this case the pool water will be corrosive and will cause wear and tear. Avoid pH values above 7.2 to allow the active chlorine to disinfect efficiently. Next point - chlorine. Measure the free chlorine value. Aim for a value between 0.4 to 0.8 mg of free chlorine per litre. Please do not let it go beyond this range as the negative effect of chlorine levels that are too high or too low can build up massively. If you can measure the cyanuric acid value, do so now. If the value is 40 ppm or higher, drain some water and replace it with fresh water until the value drops below 40 ppm. Aim to keep it between 8 and 40 ppm. Next, add some winter care product to prevent lime precipitation and algae growth. Step 3: If necessary, lower your water level For all Intex and Bestway pools that use the connections with stopcocks, the water level must be lowered below the stopcocks. The stopcocks on large connections are prone to frost damage. So remove the stopcocks, dry them and store them. For Intex or Bestway pools with 32 mm connections, replace the existing connections with black one-piece plugs. Partial lowering is also advisable if the cyanuric acid level is above 40 ppm. Step 4: Winterise your Intex or Bestway pool with a cover Needless to say, to prevent dirt from getting into your pool water, you will need to use a pool cover without any holes. Thus your pool will remain clean all winter long. If you do use a cover with holes, bear in mind that rainwater, which usually has a low pH value, will get into your pool and will carry dirt with it. This can throw your pool water values out of balance. Using an intact pool cover without holes along with pool cushions will prevent rainwater from collecting on the cover and weighing it down in the middle. Step 5: Optional - use ice pressure pads for winter storage Water expands when it freezes, exerting a lot of pressure on the pool walls. For inground steel wall pools, ice pressure pads are therefore used to greatly reduce the pressure exerted by the ice layer. Intex and Bestway above-ground pools are usually a little more forgiving and are often wintered without ice pressure pads <![CDATA[Inflatable Whirlpools: Important Tips for Selection, Care and Heating]]> 2023-07-18T00:00:00+02:00 2023-07-18T00:00:00+02:00 https://www.pools.shop/en-UK/info/magazine/inflatable-whirlpools-important-tips-for-selection-care-and pools.shop uk@pools.shop https://www.pools.shop/en-UK Inflatable whirlpools: top features and differences! All pools have a filter pump and a heater. An air bubble system is also practically standard. But there are important differences you need to know about. Filter pump The filter systems are usually integrated in the control box and cannot be easily replaced. They work with filter cartridges and usually come in two strengths. One is close to 1,000 litres per hour and the other is around 1,700 litres per hour. Stronger filter pumps are always more effective. Wall and inflation hardness Although all inflatable whirlpools have sturdy walls some feel more secure than others. The Intex PureSpa Greywood Deluxe models or better are particularly high quality. The Simple Spa models can't be inflated quite as firmly and therefore the walls don't seem quite as stable - even if, in fact, they are. But of course, how you feel when in the pool is as important as its technical specifications - and more high-quality models are a better choice here. Size, water volume, shape, and colour It's important to think about which design would best suit your garden in terms of appearance - but an even more essential aspect is size. Not so much because of the space required, but because of the costs involved in heating and maintaining it. Inflatable whirlpools that do not hold too much water are easier and quicker to heat than larger pools. This makes it much cheaper to achieve warm water. So think carefully about whether it really always has to be the largest model. Inflatable whirlpools with Wi-FI and apps Many models offer the option of connecting to your Wi-Fi. Direct contact with your smartphone via Bluetooth is also often possible, letting you control the whirlpool from anywhere. You can also set the water temperature remotely, a very practical feature. Jet nozzles The slightly more expensive models come with jet nozzles. These do not make air bubbles - they offer a powerful massage feature. One example is the Intex Whirlpool Pure-Spa Bubble & Jet: This model has four jets that work with 250 watts each - powerful water jets that provide an effective massage. Saltwater disinfection Superior models often have integrated saltwater systems. The advantage here is that disinfection is much gentler compared to conventional chlorine systems. How to heat your inflatable whirlpool with maximum effectiveness These measures make heating your whirlpool quicker and cheaper: Use thick pool mats as a base. 1 or 1.2 cm is ideal. This has the advantage of ensuring that the pool is not in direct contact with the ground, reducing heat loss. The use of additional energy-saving covers also significantly reduces heat loss. You can insulate both the sides and the top. Of course, this does involve additional costs but frequent use makes the investment more than worth it. Avoid heating your pool if it is not covered. Inflatable whirlpools and water maintenance Good water care is particularly important for pools operated with warm water - this is an environment that microorganisms love. Here are a few tips on how to avoid unnecessary problems: Filter running time Let your filter pump run for a long time if the water temperature exceeds 28°C. 6-8 hours is a good length. On days when your inflatable whirlpool is used, we advise running your filter pump for 12-18 hours. The warmer and dirtier the pool, the longer the running time should be. Condition of the filter If too much dirt accumulates in your filter, it can become a breeding ground for microorganisms. Clean your filter cartridge regularly and replace it completely every 10-20 days, depending on the amount of use. Keep the water moving Another reason for long filter running times: Microorganisms don't like moving water and multiply much more slowly when water is in motion. And making life difficult for microorganisms makes water maintenance much easier. Take the pH value seriously Unfortunately, beginners in particular often do not take the pH value seriously enough. This is a big mistake. Because, if the pH value is not right (we recommend a range between 7.0-7.4), then skin irritation, odours, and lime sediment can become an issue. If the pH value is too low, the water can become corrosive. If it is too high, disinfectant is far less effective - at a pH value of 8.3, chlorine works with an effectiveness of just 20%! Use a pool vacuum cleaner for your inflatable whirlpool Over time, particles sink to the bottom, where they can no longer be reached by your filter pump. Eventually, your pool will start to look visibly dirty - and contaminants often create a breeding ground for microorganisms. Remove as many particles as possible with a pool vacuum. The Intex Underwater Handheld Vacuum Cleaner comes with a microfilter and does an excellent job! Further guides At Pools.Shop we have lots of great practical guides for you - feel free to take a look! What to do if you notice algae growth in your pool: Our clear guide "Algae in Pool Water - The Route Back to Clear and Clean Water" tells you how to effectively and quickly rid your pool of algae. The best thing to do is to avoid problems occurring in the first place. Our detailed guide "Pool Water Care: Everything You Need to Know!" is also very important and helpful for owners of inflatable whirlpools. <![CDATA[The 7 Most Interesting Pool Accessories]]> 2023-05-08T00:00:00+02:00 2023-05-08T00:00:00+02:00 https://www.pools.shop/en-UK/info/magazine/the-7-most-interesting-pool-accessories pools.shop uk@pools.shop https://www.pools.shop/en-UK Seventh place: Exit Toys dome for warmer, cleaner water Dome pool covers are the perfect way to get an indoor-pool experience in your own garden. They have several advantages: Raising water temperature by up to 4-6°C for a longer period of time Significantly reducing the amount of dirt in your pool, meaning less maintenance and less chlorine use Noticeable reduction of UV-B rays You can enjoy using your pool even when it rains You can install these pool domes on frame pools, provided that their pipes are not larger than 5 cm in diameter. They fit Exit pools, but also Intex pools such as the Intex Frame Pool Set Rondo Ø 366 x 122 cm. The transparent film of the dome allows sunlight to pass through, but it is difficult for infrared radiation (which can be thought of as heat radiation) emitted by the pool water to exit. The energy captured therefore remains in the pool for longer, meaning that the average temperature rises very sharply over time. Sixth place: Steinbach Pool Equipment Box This is an attractive option for housing sand filter systems while significantly lowering noise levels. The Steinbach pool equipment box features excellent soundproofing, which is why it costs significantly more than normal boxes. Soundproofing products are usually complex and require special combinations of materials to function properly. After all, the aim is to achieve a reduction not only of the high frequencies, but also of the very challenging low frequencies. In terms of physics, this isn't easy - but the Steinbach Pool Equipment Box successfully lowers the entire frequency spectrum of your sand filter system. This reduces the noise by 6-8 dB. Although it isn't eliminated completely, this is a significant improvement, making it the perfect product for pool users with sensitive ears. Fifth place: The Steinbach heat pumps from the Waterpower series A heat pump is a good way to economically heat your pool. Unlike when using a standard electric heater, you can get several watts of heat energy from one watt of electricity fed into the system. For example, the Steinbach Waterpower Heat Pump 5000 uses up to 840 watts of electricity but can achieve a heating effect of up to 5,100 watts. The warmer the air, the higher the efficiency of the heat pump. Remember to ensure that the heat pump is sufficiently powerful. This makes it quicker to heat the pool and avoids the need to run the heat pump overnight, when it is far less efficient. The Waterpower 5000 achieves optimal results when a pool can hold between 6,000 and 20,000 litres of water. Thermal insulation makes using a heat pump even more efficient - a solar cover is a top tip here. Pool mats or XPS panels are also often recommended, as they can add 10-25% additional efficiency. For larger pools, we recommend the stronger Steinbach Waterpower 8500, which is perfect for pools with a volume of up to 34,000 litres. Fourth place: Flocculation products Flocculants are an excellent way to achieve clear water when you use a sand filter system with filter sand or filter glass. We recommend Steinbach Flocculation Cartridges, which you put into the skimmer. You might be wondering why you need this product. Well, many particles are simply too small to be caught by the filter system, meaning they end up back in your pool. Examples are: Limescale residue Oils and greases Dust Soot Pollen Cosmetics Organic particles Metal ions Flocculants are positively charged particles that attract the above-mentioned negatively charged particles. This creates flocs, some visible to the naked eye, that are easily filterable by your sand filter. Remember that flocculation requires the correct pH value and it works best at relatively low flow rates in the boiler. The following sand filters from our range are particularly suitable for flocculation: Steinbach Classic 310 Intex Crystal Clear 6 m³ Intex Crystal Clear 8 m³ Intex Crystal Clear 9.2 m³ Intex Crystal Clear sand filter systems with salt water systems (6 and 8 m³] Steinbach Compact 8, SM and Eco-Top series All Bestway sand filters PLEASE NOTE: Flocculants are not suitable for cartridge filters or filter balls! Third place: Bestway sand filter system Flowclear 5,678 l/h We now also sell Bestway sand filter systems - the model 58497 with 5,678 l/h is a great option for many pool owners. This powerful filter system reaches 5,678 l gross or about 5,000 l net per hour without consuming too much electricity, requiring only 230 watts, which keeps costs to a minimum. An added bonus is that this sand filter system is quieter than other filter systems. Top feature: The oversized boiler! The best feature is the very large boiler: with a diameter of 385 mm and a filling volume of up to 35 kg of sand, the Flowclear Sand Filter System 5,678 l/h is generously sized compared to the pump power. The large boiler ensures that the water inside passes through more slowly, helping to prevent small and flocculated particles from being pushed through the sand. This system therefore filters more effectively than other systems with smaller boilers. Even very expensive sand filters for professional pools often do not have a better ratio of pump power to boiler size. Thumbs up to Bestway! Second place: Intex underwater hand vacuum Of course, good pool water care includes vacuuming the bottom of the pool. Filter systems can't reach sunk dirt particles, meaning that it is important to remove these particles yourself. There are various pool vacuum cleaners that can be used to clean the bottom of your pool. Robots are very convenient but many are expensive and not as accurate as they should be. However, you can achieve near-perfect results if you prevent the particles from being whirled around - there are a few vacuums that make this possible. A particularly good device is the Intex handheld vacuum cleaner - if you work carefully you can entirely avoid particles being swirled around. Thanks to the microfilter bag, it filters even very small particles. In combination with Steinbach filter balls, it filters virtually everything down to a size of 2.5 micrometres. The best thing is that you can also use the Intex underwater hand vacuum cleaner whenever you notice dirt or particles. It is easy and quick to use - you don't even need to lay a cable. Simply immerse in water, turn on, vacuum, take out, and recharge - that's it! Our number one: The Steinbach Speedsolar Solar Mat The solar mats by Steinbach are an up-to-date and eco-friendly way to heat your pool that doesn't result in additional costs. They are very good value, giving you a lot of collector area for a very reasonable price. The amount of water in most pools means that larger collector areas work far better. We have the Steinbach Speedsolar Solar Mat available in various sizes, such as 0.7 x 3.0 m and 0.7 x 6.0 m. Combine these solar heaters with a solar foil and even further thermal insulation measures like pool mats or a dome for maximum results. You should allocate a minimum of about 25% of the pool area as a collector area, so that your solar heating set-up can cope with the amount of water in your pool. More is even better! Click here for all pool accessories >> <![CDATA[Intex Frame Pool 366x122 cm Replacement Pool]]> 2023-04-24T00:00:00+02:00 2023-04-24T00:00:00+02:00 https://www.pools.shop/en-UK/info/magazine/intex-frame-pool-366x122-cm-replacement-pool pools.shop uk@pools.shop https://www.pools.shop/en-UK Intex Frame Pool 366x122 cm: The advantages Create your own individual set-up Unlike many other pools, this above-ground pool comes without accessories (aside from the connections for a filter pump and the safety ladder). This means you can add exactly the products you want or integrate the pool into an existing set-up. Stable, durable, and good value! This above-ground pool has a tubular steel skeleton - making it both durable and reasonably priced. The steel tubes make the Intex Frame Pool 366x122 cm very stable and, unlike with a ring pool, you don't need to worry about birds or cats. Despite this it is still much cheaper than a steel wall pool, although the pool liner has a thickness of 0.41 to 0.58 mm, meaning that it can easily compete with the liners that come with many steel wall pools. The Intex Frame Pool 366 x 122 cm is easy to heat Many pool owners are not fully satisfied until the pool water is pleasantly warm. This pool is not too big and has a water capacity of 10,685 litres, making the pool easier to heat. A good solution is to combine a solar tarpaulin and a solar collector for swimming pools with at least 2.5m² of collector area - this is a great way to significantly increase the temperature of the water in an environmentally friendly and cost-effective way. Another option is to use a pool heating pump. But don't forget that the amount of water is still equivalent to about three full-grown elephants - this requires a good amount of energy. Intex Frame Pool 366x122 cm: putting it up You don't need any tools to set up the pool and it is pretty easy to assemble even on your own. If you've had a good bit of practice, it takes about 15 minutes and if you have never built a pool like this before it should still only take around 45 minutes. If there are two of you it will take even less time. Don't forget: the ladder also needs to be put together, which takes an additional 10-30 minutes. Practical tip: a wrinkle-free pool looks better and stays cleaner Take your time when putting in the pool liner of the Intex Frame Pool 366x122 cm. Get into the pool and eliminate any wrinkles. Some will not go away immediately. A good tip here is to fill about 3-7 cm of water into the pool and then try again. If you work carefully and there are still wrinkles left, the water pressure is highly likely to get rid of the rest when the pool has been completely filled. A wrinkle-free pool always looks better - plus, there will be fewer areas for dirt to accumulate and if you use a pool robot it won't get stuck in the wrinkles. The pool ladder: For more safety The Intex Frame Pool 366x122 cm comes with a matching Intex safety ladder. The rungs can be removed, helping to keep children out of danger. An added bonus is that the ladder has a central seating platform at the top. Product features of the Intex Rondo Frame Pool 366x122 cm Dimensions and compatibility The total diameter is approximately 366 cm. Since the steel tubes take up a little space, the net diameter of the water surface is approximately 354-356 cm. The pool is 122 cm high and the water can be filled to about 110 cm. Inlets and outlets are provided with 32 mm connections, so you can connect many different cartridge filter systems or sand filter systems. Our favourite is the Steinbach Speed Clean Classic 310 Sand Filter System, which features a large boiler with a powerful pump without noise or power consumption going through the roof. Scope of delivery of the Intex Frame Pool 366x122 cm Included in the delivery are: Complete frame including feet Pool liner Drain valve Connections for a filter system Matching Intex safety ladder How to keep your pool for longer When we say longevity, we mean it. If you take good care of your Intex Frame Pool 366x122 you can use it for many years Make sure the pool liner is at least 10°C when setting up and taking it down. 15°C would be even better. This is because pool liners can suffer damage at very low temperatures when being folded (or unfolded). At 5°C, for example, damage is almost certain. A good tip is to put the pool liner in a warm room before setting up. Check the beams for scratches every now and then. The powder coating is there to prevent rust. If the steel shows through, there is a risk of rust damage. If the paint has come off badly, react immediately and apply paint yourself (possibly also zinc spray) to prevent rusting. Further advice Pools.Shop has lots of great practical guides on how to get the most out of your pool set-up Wondering what preliminary work you need to do before set-up? Our guide "Your Pool Base: 5 Helpful Measures" is certainly worth a look. To make sure you can enjoy pleasantly warm water, check out our very popular guide "Heating Your Pool - Tips & Tricks" <![CDATA[Your Pool Base: 5 Helpful Measures]]> 2023-03-18T00:00:00+01:00 2023-03-18T00:00:00+01:00 https://www.pools.shop/en-UK/info/magazine/surface-for-under-your-pool-5-helpful-measures pools.shop uk@pools.shop https://www.pools.shop/en-UK This article reveals 5 solutions for above-ground pools, which also apply to steel wall pools. If you want to sink a steel wall pool, then read our separate guide "Digging in a Steel Wall Pool - Pros & Cons + Instructions" Step One: Choosing a location and planning Ideally, you should find a spot in the garden which gets as much sun as possible. The sun is a great source of energy and your pool water will be warmer if it is not in the shade. Also, remember to think about your neighbours. Do you want your pool equipment very close to the pool? Will you have noisy devices like a strong sand filter system or a heat pump? The location will affect how much your neighbour notices. Even the way your pool is oriented can have an impact. If the pool is between the sand filter and your neighbour they will hear it less. If you have small children, make sure you're able to keep a good eye on them. It is also ideal if the ground is already as level as possible to avoid having to dig out large amounts of soil. Why the ground should be level and firm The ground will have a big impact on your pool. You can't trick water. If the ground underneath your pool isn't even, the water level will differ from one side to the other, spoiling the appearance. If your swimming pool is not straight, the strain placed on the supports or the pool liner is not evenly distributed. Poles can bend and your pool might even be permanently damaged. Scenario 1: Can I place my pool directly on the lawn? Setting up above-ground pools such as frame pools and air ring pools Often, an above-ground pool is simply placed on the lawn. Provided that the ground itself is level and the slope is not more than 1%, this approach is quite feasible. However, this will cause damage to the lawn - you will have a large brown spot in the garden when you take the pool down again. A more problematic issue is if your lawn moulders. However, this does not have to happen and we have never received feedback that there have been any bad odours. Still, start by removing any objects from the area. For example: Stones Branches Roots Heaps of earth Now, as a minimum, put down a groundsheet. This will protect the pool liner from root growth and any small stones you may have missed as well as preventing contact with any rotting material. Scenario 2: Removing the turf Suitable for above-ground pools and steel wall pools A better solution for the pool base that still doesn't require too much work would be to remove the turf. Since the grass would die off anyway, we can't see any disadvantages to this. Start by marking the area of turf you want to remove. How-to for a rectangular pool: Determine the space required. The amount of space needed is often greater than the size of the actual pool because supports protrude on the sides. For example, the Intex Ultra Quadra XTR 549 x 274 x 132 cm frame pool requires a total of 605 x 330 cm of space. Decide whether you want to remove the turf from the whole area or only where the supports are. In any case, the supports must be at the same height as the pool. It is best to place small blocks of stone under them, as there will be considerable pressure on the supports. You can start by just setting up the pool frame to find out where the supports will be later. This will help you mark the area to be worked on. If you do not want to set up the pool frame in advance, measure the area. You can mark the area with flour or with string attached to stakes driven into the ground How-to for a round pool: Hit a small stake into the ground and attach a piece of string to it that is as long as the radius of the pool. Hold onto the end of the string and walk in a circle, marking it as you go. Flour works well here. Creating the pool base: remove the turf and fill the area with sand You've already marked the area that needs to be dug out. Now use a spade to remove the turf. Two to six centimetres are definitely enough. Use a straightedge (1.5 meters or longer is ideal) and put a spirit level on it. Now check whether it is uneven anywhere. If so, level out any unevenness. If the soil is very firm, you can then lay a groundsheet or pool mats. You can also add sand to raise the entire level again. But at the latest when using sand or if your soil is not very firm, you will need to use a vibrating plate to compact the soil. Otherwise, your pool could sink into the ground at certain points, leading to one-sided loads, which can and probably will lead to permanent damage to the pool. Scenario 3: Leveling the ground The site is often not even but has depressions or even an overall slope. 3a) Leveling of unevenness If the substrate is a lawn, as in scenario 1, then fill in the unevenness with sand. Make sure you apply the sand as densely as possible. However, this does not work at the points where the supports of a frame pool are braced. The high pressure at the support ends means that they will sink in if the sand is not highly compacted. You can build the pool frame without a liner and see if you can orient it so that supports are not placed on areas that are "just" backfilled. 3b) Leveling the ground by removing material Particularly when it comes to slopes, the most thorough and reliable long-term solution is to level the entire surface by removing material. In principle, you proceed as in scenario 2. You can remove up to about 18 centimetres without needing concrete work. For the vast majority of situations, this is quite sufficient. Remove the soil, using a straightedge and spirit level to check that the ground is as level as possible. We then recommend applying a layer of sand and then compacting it. If the earth is already firm, you can use a vibratory plate with 10-11 kN. However, there is no harm in using a vibratory plate with 18 kN or more. The only argument against this is their weight. Scenario 4: Constructing a concrete slab This is the best and most thorough solution when installing a swimming pool. A concrete slab creates a very durable and stable base for your pool. This type of slab is particularly suitable for a steel wall pool or a large frame pool because of the very high pressure exerted by the supports. Quick Up pools do not need a base like this because these pools exert uniform pressure. Remember that a concrete slab involves investing time and money. Think about whether this is worth it beforehand. Constructing a concrete slab as a pool base: practical tips We recommend laying a 10-20 cm layer of gravel (or crushed stone) under the concrete slab so that you have drainage. Of course, this gravel layer needs to be strongly compacted using a vibratory plate, so that it withstands the pressure of the slab itself and the water pressure. For construction, be sure to use rods to reinforce the concrete, as this will make your slab much stronger and more durable. Tie the rods together so they don't slip when the concrete is poured The reinforcing rods should not be placed directly on the ground - there are spacers available to ensure that the rods "float" slightly raised above the ground. Don't get rid of all excavated material immediately - you sometimes need some of it to fill in gaps. Order a few per cent more concrete than you calculated - often you need a tiny bit more than you expect. There's nothing more frustrating than finding out you don't have quite enough! Remember to also take into account the space needed to prop up any protruding supports when sizing the concrete slab. Choosing a protective layer for your pool: what are the differences between a groundsheet, fleece, and pool mats? The important thing is to always protect your pool from overlooked small stones, loose material, roots, etc., to prevent your pool liner from getting damaged as far as possible. Various layers can serve this purpose: A groundsheet is the cheapest solution. These are very thin but do the job. Fleeces are often a little thicker and a little more comfortable to stand on - they are used as a standard pool base for steel wall pools. But there is no reason not to use fleece for above-ground pools too. Pool mats are between 4 to 12 mm thick and a little spongy. They are more comfortable to step on and make the ground seem less hard. Plus they have an insulating effect, allowing solar collectors and pool heating pumps in particular to operate more efficiently, as there is far less heat loss to the ground. Take a look at our guide "Heating Your Pool - Tips & Tricks" for more information. Thick Styrodur boards (also called XPS boards) provide even better insulation. They also cost no more than pool mats, but they require very extensive work if you have a pool with supports, because the Styrodur boards do not withstand high pressure exerted on a very small area. Only particularly hard Styrodur panels are suitable because they cope less well with this sort of pressure than pool mats or fleeces. Scenario 5: Can you put a pool on the terrace? Can you simply place your pool on the terrace? Well, this is possible in principle. Above-ground pools are often put on a terrace - particularly small frame pools. But remember that terraces are sloping, so that rainwater can drain away to the outside. So measure the slope - 1% slope is the maximum! And before you start putting up your pool, check whether your patio can withstand the weight. Terraces made of wood in particular can only cope with a limited load. This is something you need to research. <![CDATA[A Comparison of Pool Vacuum Cleaners ]]> 2023-02-28T00:00:00+01:00 2023-02-28T00:00:00+01:00 https://www.pools.shop/en-UK/info/magazine/pool-floor-vacuum-cleaners-in-comparison pools.shop uk@pools.shop https://www.pools.shop/en-UK Properties of a good pool vacuum cleaner A good vacuum cleaner should remove as much dirt as possible from your pool in a reasonable amount of time. It should be able to suck up the dirt from the pool floor without stirring it up and sending clouds of dirt swirling through the pool water. Ideally, a pool vacuum should not only suction leaves and other larger dirt particles, but also permanently remove very fine particles from the water. This will help improve the water quality in your pool so you can enjoy splashing around in your pool more. When it comes to operation, it should lighten your workload, not add to it. What types of pool vacuum cleaners are available There are different types and categories of pool vacuum cleaners: manual vacuum cleaners that are operated via the filter system manual vacuum cleaners that are operated with a garden hose manual vacuum cleaners powered by a built-in rechargeable battery Pool robots powered by the filter pump Pool robots with mains power Pool robots powered by battery Pool robots that not only clean the pool floor but also the walls and, if necessary, the waterline How do pool vacuum cleaners differ? a) Degree of completeness Some devices come with everything needed to operate and can be used right away. Other pool floor vacuum cleaners need extra accessories. Here are some examples: The Steinbach Basic Cleaning Set includes a manual vacuum cleaner that needs an extra garden hose for operation, just like the Intex Venturi Cleaning Set. The Steinbach Deluxe Manual Vacuum Cleaner requires both a hose, a telescopic rod and a filter pump to which it must be connected. The Intex underwater handheld vacuum cleaner comes with a telescopic rod, attachments and a charging cable. But not included is the power supply unit or charger - you must supply the USB charger. b) Pool vacuum cleaner accessories Some pool vacuum cleaners and pool robots comes with some accessories included. Usually these include different filter inserts (e.g. coarse and fine filters), attachments with different suction surfaces or brush attachments. Some manual vacuum cleaners often include a suction hose and/or a telescopic rod. Comparing different pool floor vacuum cleaners Let's compare some models. a) Vacuum cleaners for manual cleaning These vacuum cleaners must be operated by hand. But there are some differences in usage and the cleaning process itself. Venturi vacuum cleaners for pools Pool vacuum cleaners that work on the Venturi principle and garden hose are very economical. With such a device, you can achieve a more or less clean pool floor but it's not perfect. Plus, depending on the duration, new water gets added to the pool which can change the water values a little. Examples are the Steinbach basic cleaning set mentioned above and the Intex Venturi Cleaning Set. They will not perform miracles and you should use them only for a pool floor area of up to 8m². Pump-operated pool floor vacuum cleaners Cleaners like this are available in different models. Our favourite here is the Intex Deluxe Cleaning Kit. Compared to other floor vacuums in this category, this vacuum cleaner can be attached to the inner pool wall on Bestway and Intex pools. This enables operation without self-priming filter pumps because the water is drawn into the pump on its own. This pool vacuum also only needs 2.7m³ net pump capacity to achieve very good to excellent results when cleaning the pool with the narrow attachment. For the large attachment, however, your cartridge filter system or sand filter system needs a net pump capacity of 4.5 m³ for best results. The advantage with such a powerful pump is that with this combination, even medium-sized pools up to 22m² can be cleaned effectively within a reasonable amount of time. Another reason why we recommend this Intex pool cleaner model is that the device itself does not move. It stays in a fixed spot while cleaning your pool and cannot tip over accidentally - which is good! Cordless vacuum cleaner The special feature of such vacuum cleaners is that they don't need to be set up or taken apart. Simply submerge it, switch it on and off it goes! This is ideal if you want to do a quick clean up at any time. The Intex underwater vacuum cleaner has some additional features that make it popular with pool owners: achieve extremely good cleaning results with a narrow suction attachment without brushing a sturdy telescopic rod is included in the delivery can also be attached to other telescopic rods (3 cm) using the enclosed adapter reasonable price very fine micro-filter gets most dirt filtered cleaning performance can be improved with filter balls - it can suction up even finer particles when compared to the fine micro bag does not cause turbulence when used slowly But the Intex underwater handheld vacuum cleaner also has its limitations. The suction power is only very good with the small suction attachment without the brushes. The suction power is considerably reduced with the brushes or the large attachment with rows of brushes on the underside. b) Pool robots These are automated pool floor vacuum cleaners that are very suitable for pool maintenance. The most important feature of pool robots is that they significantly reduce the amount of work you have to put in when cleaning your pool. Let's look at the various types: Automated pool vacuums powered by a pump There are several models available of which the three most popular are: Auto Pool Cleaner ZX50 - for pools with 32 mm connections Intex Auto Pool Cleaner 28001 - for pools with 38 mm Intex connections Intex Delxue Auto Pool Cleaner ZX300 - for pools with 38 mm Intex connections (also cleans the walls) Note that these pool vacuums have different hose connections. The ZX50 model is only suitable for Intex round pools up to 457 cm in diameter and rectangular pools with a maximum length of 488 cm. The filter system should have a net output between 2,700-4,400 L/h (gross: 3,400 - 5,700 L/h). The 28001 and Zx300 models can only be used with larger Intex pools. These vacuum cleaners need powerful pumps to work properly. The output needed here is between 6,000 and 13,250 L/h gross. Tip: If your sand filter has a gross capacity of just under 6,000 L (many devices have a gross capacity of 5,700 L), then set the sand filter valve to "circulate" - this will significantly increase the performance of your filter pump. Since both Intex pool vacuum cleaners work on the pressure-feed system, such an approach is not a disadvantage. Electrically powered pool robots These products can have huge differences. First thing to consider is the absolute suction power - more is better! The higher the suction power the better is the dirt removal performance. But speed is also an important factor but here, less is better! When they move slowly, they stir up less dirt and suction up dirt more thoroughly. Our favourites are: Steinbach Twin pool cleaner and Steinbach Pool Cleaner with App. They are a little slower than smaller models but have an extremely powerful suction pump. The cleaning results are excellent. Plus, they clean the pool walls as well as the waterline (to be precise: 3-4 cm above it). But these pool robots are more expensive and weigh significantly more than smaller devices. Pool floor vacuums - how they help with pool maintenance Many pool owners are not aware that pool vacuum cleaners not only improve the appearance of your pool and garden but also improve pool water quality and reduce the use of pool chemicals. Remember that debris such as dust, leaves, pollen and insects are a breeding ground and source of nutrition for microorganisms. Removing these particles permanently from your pool water with a vacuum cleaner also removes the microorganisms living on them as well as potential food sources for them. Furthermore, with the regular use of such a pool cleaner, you will need less chlorine because there are fewer targets in the pool for the chlorine to tackle. Tips for best results You can get great results even with a reasonable budget. If the suction power is not very high, use the smallest attachment possible. Pump-powered models require fully deflated pool hoses otherwise their performance will be greatly reduced. Unless you're using a self-priming pump, it only sucks air. If possible, place filter balls in your pool vacuum cleaner. You can get excellent filtration results because filter balls can go down to 1.5 microns. In case of cordless vacuum cleaners, remember to recharge them fully after every use. Don't operate for too long (foe instance, the Intex underwater vacuum cleaner should be used for a maximum of 50 minutes at a time). You can protect the battery from damage by combining these two measures. In case of excessive algae growth, loosen all algae manually with a brush first before running your pool vacuum cleaner. Using filter balls is particularly beneficial in case of algae infestation because otherwise some algae spores and individual algae would not get filtered out. Dirt can flow right back into the water as a vacuum cleaner is removed from the pool. Each vacuum cleaner needs to be removed from the pool in a particular way to prevent the dirt from flowing back into the pool - experiment a little here. Information about purchasing In our online store we offer a variety of pool vacuum cleaners at great prices. We are committed to offering a wide assortment, great bargains and, of course, speedy shipping. 70% of all orders in Germany and Austria are delivered within a day. On each product page, you can find detailed information and specific features of each product to help you make the right choice. Enjoy browsing! <![CDATA[Cyanuric acid and chlorine stabiliser: When chlorine is (not) working as it should]]> 2023-02-27T00:00:00+01:00 2023-02-27T00:00:00+01:00 https://www.pools.shop/en-UK/info/magazine/cyanuric-acid-and-chlorine-stabiliser-when-chlorine-is-not pools.shop uk@pools.shop https://www.pools.shop/en-UK What is cyanuric acid? We'd like to keep this guide as simple as possible which is why we are not going to explain the underlying chemistry 100% accurately but will present a greatly simplified version of it. This will however not be a disadvantage in understanding pool water care or achieving optimal results. Cyanuric acid (closely related to isocyanuric acid and with the same effect) is a substance that is used to produce organic chlorine can be added manually and separately to pool water What is organic chlorine? Our range of pool chemicals features almost exclusively organic chlorine products. In contrast to inorganic chlorine, organic chlorine is easier to use by beginners and often by advanced users as well. First off, because it is pH-neutral, it does not result in limescale and secondly, the chlorination process is more stable and reliable. One of the defining features of organic chlorine is that it always contains cyanuric acid. How does cyanuric acid work? Depending on the amount of cyanuric acid in the pool water, the effect can be positive or negative. In general though, if the amount is not too high, the effects are positive and very desirable. Stabiliser Cyanuric acid combines with chlorine and prevents chlorine from acting immediately and being used up quickly. This ensures that the chlorine works evenly over a longer period of time. Instead of being quick and intense, the chlorine is allowed to work more gently and slowly. This is why cyanuric acid is also called a chlorine stabiliser. A product like Steinbach's chlorine stabiliser, for example, contains cyanuric acid. UV protection The second, less well-known effect is that cyanuric acid protects chlorine from breaking down when exposed to high amounts of UV radiation. Pool water is exposed to very high UV radiation on hot summer days when the sun is high in the sky. UV rays decompose effective chlorine and it is lost without having performed its task as a disinfectant. Usually, this effect takes place in the upper layers of water near the surface and can reach depths of up to 1 m. However, chlorine particles that are bound to cyanuric acid do not decompose. They have a delayed effect. For example, late in the afternoon when UV radiation is much lower or completely absent. Too much chlorine stabiliser is not good! It is extremely important to bear in mind that chlorine does not disinfect while bound to cyanuric acid. The aim should be to buffer only about 20-40% of the chlorine. Any higher and the disinfecting effect of chlorine will suffer. The correct way to use a chlorine stabiliser (= cyanuric acid) The most important properties: if there is too little chlorine stabiliser or cyanuric acid, the disinfection is too uneven and fast if there is too much chlorine stabiliser, the disinfection performance is greatly reduced if the amount of chlorine stabiliser is too high, the only way to ensure effective disinfection is by adding more chlorine cyanuric acid does not break down on its own! There are two scenarios we should consider: Using chlorine tablets or Multitabs and the resulting accumulation of cyanuric acid over time Manually adding chlorine stabiliser to inorganic chlorine (for example: calcium hypochlorite or saltwater systems with sodium hypochlorite) Let's look at that separately. Case 1: regular use of chlorine tablets This tends to be the case with most home users who own pools such as frame pools, inflatable pools, or steel wall pools. How can you tell if you are using organic chlorine? The packaging contains terms such as "ph-neutral" or "pH stabiliser". Only organic chlorine does not affect the pH value of water. Troclosene sodium, symclosene, trichloroisocyanuric acid - one of these terms is specified as the active ingredient in the product data sheet. If either of these is true, the active chlorine, i.e. the free chlorine, you are using is organic in nature. When this is used, cyanuric acid is always released into the water. Note that most granulated chlorine products also contain cyanuric acid - such as the product by Pool Professional or Steinbach's chlorine granulate. Build-up of cyanuric acid in the pool The good news first: Even if chlorine stabiliser is being constantly added to your pool water, the amounts added are generally still acceptable with the normal use of chlorine tablets over the duration of a season. However, excessive chlorination or one or more shock chlorination processes can result in the accumulation of too much cyanuric acid towards the end of the season. This may result in the worst-case scenario where your pool water turns green although the pH value of your water is right and there is a sufficient amount of free chlorine. How do you fix this? Measure cyanuric acid (abbreviated to "CYA") if you are unsure of the cyanuric acid content in your pool. Note that many water testers don't measure this value. But some products, such as the pool tester by Poollab, do measure this value. The CYA value is given in "parts per million" and a value in the range of 8-15 ppm is optimal - you should be careful not to let it go beyond that. Even a value of 25 and up to a maximum of 30 is OK if you keep up a good pool water care routine. But if the value is over 30, we strongly recommend that you lower it. We'll describe how you can do that below. Case 2: Adding the right amount of chlorine stabiliser manually If you use a saltwater system for your saltwater pool you should bear in mind that sodium hypochlorite is formed in the process - this is inorganic, free chlorine. Case 2 also applies when inorganic free chlorine is added manually. A chlorine stabiliser can be used in such situations. However, chlorination will not be very even and there will be no protective buffer against UV rays. This may be acceptable with inorganic chlorine tablets since tablets dissolve gradually and evenly over time, but that's not the case in a saltwater system. Operating a saltwater system without cyanuric acid? Not a good idea Saltwater systems usually run for one or more hours at a time every day. Multiple cycles are not possible with many chlorinators (at least not automated). The result is that increased amounts of disinfectant are present in the water for a short time which gets quickly used up due to the reaction with organic substances (microorganisms such as bacteria, algae, viruses, substances that cause water turbidity, etc.). Plus, exposure to strong sunlight (UV rays) causes additional break down of chlorine. This can mean that there is no free chlorine in your pool water over an extended period of time! The same is true if you're using a salt-electrolysis hot tub - only it's even worse, because the water temperature in a hot tub is typically at 30°C or higher. The solution: Steinbach Chlorine Stabiliser Steinbach offers Chlorine Stabiliser Granules (cyanuric acid) that can be added manually. Here are tips on how to use it: Add 10 g of Steinbach Chlorine Stabiliser for every cubic meter of pool water You can either weigh the correct amount of stabiliser or use the measuring scoop. 10 g correspond to 15 ml. We recommend that you dissolve the chlorine stabiliser separately in a bucket and then pour it into the pool with the filter system running. A little background info - since it is difficult to remove cyanuric acid from pool water, it is better to add too little than too much. That's why we stay below the dosage recommended by Steinbach. You can always add more if you wish. The dissolving process Cyanuric acid added to pool water dissolves very slowly and not easily. If you're unlucky, the dissolving process can take several days. That's why we recommend that you dissolve chlorine stabiliser in a bucket of very warm water first. Even at high water temperatures, it does not dissolve easily - but it is much better than at 15°C or 25°C. We suggest that you fill up a bucket with 10 L of 50-70°C hot water and then add the required amount of Steinbach Chlorine Stabiliser. Stirring it well should be enough to dissolve most of it, which you can then add to your pool water. You may have to repeat this process several times until all the cyanuric acid is dissolved. Since cyanuric acid doesn't break down on its own, you will thankfully not need to repeat this process often. Depending on the circumstances, you might need to do it just once a year or just once over several years. Cyanuric acid and measuring free chlorine: Not so trivial! It is generally recommended to keep the free chlorine level in pool water between 0.3-0.6 mg per litre. However, if the cyanuric acid level in the water is 30 ppm, then only around 40% of the chlorine is available for disinfection. (plus: if the pH is 7.5 or above, that lowers the amount of free chlorine even further!) For instance, you measure 0.4 mg per litre of free chlorine and 30 ppm of cyanuric acid. With a very good pH value of 7.0, you can assume that the actual chlorine value is only 0.16! So either lower the cyanuric acid amount (but not too much - the buffering effect is desirable and intentional) or increase the amount of free chlorine. Lower the CYA level in the pool Sometimes you will hear comments such as "the pH level is 7.0 and chlorine at 0.5. Why is my pool still turning green?" In this case, if you were to ask about the CYA level, you would probably get an answer such as "the measured value is 70 ppm". That's way too high! This value needs to be reduced urgently! The problem is, CYA does not degrade on its own. To reduce the CYA level, partially drain the pool and add fresh water. <![CDATA[Cloudy or Milk Pool Water - Causes & Remedies]]> 2023-02-25T00:00:00+01:00 2023-02-25T00:00:00+01:00 https://www.pools.shop/en-UK/info/magazine/cloudy-or-milk-pool-water-causes-remedies pools.shop uk@pools.shop https://www.pools.shop/en-UK Is your pool water cloudy or milk or both? The solution depends on the cause of the problem. In fact, it is possible that your pool water is both milk and cloudy in which case you will have to combine the remedies. Causes: Bacteria or precipitated lime? Take a close look at your pool water and try to answer the following questions: On close examination do you see lots of very small white particles floating in the water? Is the cloudiness of the pool water primarily whitish or nearly colourless? The water does not stink and the walls don't feel slimy? Then it's highly probable that the problem is limescale precipitation. The cause is usually a combination of very hard water and an excessively high pH value. Cloudy pool water: When microorganisms are the culprits Is your pool water cloudy but not really milky? On closer examination, you don't see lots of very fine white particles floating in the water? If this the case, your pool probably contains huge numbers of bacteria and possibly algae as well. Further indications that microorganisms could be the problem are: your pool walls are slimy to the touch the water has a very slight or strong tint the pool water stinks cloudiness is visible at high water temperatures Milky pool water: how to restore water quality in case of limescale precipitation If you suspect limescale precipitation, you will need to remove the floating lime particles. These two steps are highly recommended: adjust the pH value use a filter system for effective filtration Adjust the pH value In general, limescale precipitation occurs when the water parameters in your pool are out of balance. It is primarily the pH that is too high. Limescale deposits are very likely, especially with pH values of 8.0 and above. If the pool water is particularly calcareous, the water can be so cloudy that you can't even see the bottom of the pool. To prevent further limescale from precipitating, you need to ensure that your pool pH is in the range of 7.0 to 7.4. Measure your pH value with a pool tester and use pH-Minus to lower your pH value accordingly. Clearing cloudy pool water with a filter pump Now it's time to filter the precipitated lime out of the water. This is easier said than done sometimes. Very small limescale particles in particular are difficult to filter. Medium-sized ones can be filtered reasonably well, but they often don't stay in the filter container for too long and end up back in the pool. Only the lime particles that are easily visible to the eye can be easily removed with a pool filter. If you do it the wrong way, you may end up running your sand filter for days but see little improvement beyond a point. Optimum filtration of the water to combat cloudiness There are several ways to effectively remove limescale from pool water. Most importantly, let your sand filter system run for 24-72 hours at a time. Backwash every three to five hours so that the limescale particles in the filter container are permanently removed and do not make their way back into the pool. Reduce power for better performance! Reduce the flow rate of your sand filter system if possible. You can achieve this if you have accessories such as a three-way valve, a solar collector or, ideally, an adjustable water diverter. Due to lower water speeds, filtered particles remain longer or permanently in the filter container - this is extremely important, especially in the case of limescale deposits! Flocculants and turbidity removers If your sand filter works with sand or filter glass, you can use a flocculant to make limescale deposits easier to filter. The flow rate in your filter container must be kept low for this to work optimally - see above. With cartridge filter systems or filter balls you can rely on turbidity removing products. If you cannot get rid of the milkiness in your pool water at all, you can use flocculants with cartridges or filter balls in exceptional cases. But they will partially or completely clog your filter - you will have to rinse out the cartridges manually or replace them with new ones. Milky water - how to use pool vacuums against limescale deposits You can help your filtration system by adding flocculant directly to the pool. Steinbach Superflock Liquid is ideal in this case. Let it work for a few minutes and then switch off your filter system for 20 minutes. Flocculated particles will then sink to the bottom of the pool. Sometimes you can see mounds of limescale on the pool floor. Next, use a pool vacuum such as the Intex Underwater Battery Pool Vacuum to suction these particles and remove them permanently from your pool water. Tip: Use filter balls with your pool vacuum to capture as many dirt particles as possible. Do classic pool chemicals help with milky pool water? Yes and no! We recommended using PH-Minus earlier. In general, shock chlorination is only recommended if you cannot measure any chlorine in the pool or suspect that microorganisms have spread widely. Chlorine, on the other hand, does not help at all against limescale. Nevertheless, shock chlorination can be a sensible measure to ensure that microorganisms are not a problem. Cloudy pool water caused by microorganisms: A solution in just a few steps If you can rule out limescale precipitation because your pool looks cloudy rather than milky, then you can do the following: Step 1: Prepare and activate the filter system Turn on your filter pump. Run this for 12-48 hours at a stretch. Start with the cleanest possible filter medium. If necessary, use a new filter with a cartridge filter system. If you have a sand filter with sand or filter glass as the filter medium, you will need to backwash at frequent intervals to allow the filtration process to be most effective. Step 2: Check and adjust the pH value Check the pH value of your pool water. Adjust this immediately to get this value as close as possible to 7.0. A pH value of 7.4 would be a little too high in this case because chlorine works a little more effectively at this pH value. For the best results, we need to maximise the effectiveness of chlorine. Use pH-Minus or pH-Plus to adjust the pH value as necessary. Step 3: Clean the pool with a net and vacuum cleaner Chlorination is essential to tackle microorganisms. But chlorine reacts with all organic substances and its effect is diluted when it has to deal with more particles than necessary. In short, you will significantly increase the effectiveness of the shock chlorination in the next step if you now remove all coarse particles from the water in your pool. Use devices such as pool robots, pool vacuum cleaners, and pool nets to collect and remove coarse debris such as leaves, insects, and twigs from the bottom and surface of your pool. Step 4: Disinfection Now it's time to use disinfectants such as chlorine and algaecide if algae are present. Be sure to shock chlorinate to dissolve organic matter and microorganisms. Follow the manufacturer's dosage instructions. We recommend using chlorine granules and dissolving it completely in a bucket before adding it to your pool water. Step 5: Lower the temperature and keep out light Microorganisms love high temperatures and algae love light. Exposure to UV rays (light) causes chlorine to break down as well - especially closer to the water surface. Use a pool cover to cool the water and protect chlorine from exposure to UV rays. Covering your pool has the additional advantage of keeping our coarse dirt particles and debris from getting into your pool water. These conditions will maximise the effectiveness of the disinfectants you add. Milky or cloudy pool water? Targeted pool care for prevention We have listed the cause of milky and cloudy pool water and explained how you can rectify the situation and get crystal clear pool water again. Now we would like to show you how to prevent these problems from occurring in the future. A garden pool should be a place to enjoy and have fun - it should not be a health hazard! Tips for better water quality: Refer to the guides in our magazine and use the products from our categories to keep your pool water crystal clear and clean at times. Pool maintenance is all about keeping dirt and microorganisms under control. Use a pool cover to keep debris out of your pool. Let your filter system run for longer periods of time. this not only filters your water but keeps it in motion. Moving water helps to slow down the growth of microorganisms. Don't underestimate the importance of water parameters. Cloudiness is very likely to occur if water parameters are not right. It is better to check too often than not often enough. If you are not new to it, measure your water values daily for the first three weeks after filling the pool and at temperatures above 25°C. <![CDATA[Salt Water Systems - Converting Standard Pools to Salt Water Pools]]> 2023-02-22T00:00:00+01:00 2023-02-22T00:00:00+01:00 https://www.pools.shop/en-UK/info/magazine/salt-water-systems-converting-standard-pools-to-salt-water pools.shop uk@pools.shop https://www.pools.shop/en-UK Advantages of a saltwater pool You've probably had this unpleasant experience after a trip to the local community swimming pool: red, irritated eyes and the typical harsh smell of chlorine. Some people, especially those with allergies, also develop rashes on their skin. You can avoid this by disinfecting your pool without classic disinfecting products that contain chlorine with a saltwater system. The negative effects of disinfection with chlorine will then no longer be an issue. Plus, saltwater systems are less of a burden on the environment because saltwater disinfection is a cyclical process. How a saltwater system for pool disinfection works What we have stated above is overly simplistic - let's clarify things a little. There are different types of chlorine. It is important to distinguish between free chlorine and combined chlorine. Free chlorine is the type that disinfects and does not cause any problems in normal settings. Allergic reactions, irritation as well as the notorious chlorine odour come from chlorine breakdown products which are known as chloramines or combined chlorine. Thus free chlorine in normal doses is not the culprit, it is combined chlorine! This point is very important because otherwise, one cannot understand what makes saltwater systems for a pool so interesting. Salt electrolysis If salt is present in pool water at a certain concentration (example: Intex: 3 parts per thousand), salt systems can convert sodium chloride (the chemical name of salt) into sodium hypochlorite. Sodium hypochlorite is a type of free chlorine. The advantage of sodium hypochlorite is that it decomposes any chloramines (= combined chlorine) that may be present. And that's exactly why people with sensitive skin or other skin problems are so impressed with it - no undesirable combined chlorine in the pool water! The saltwater itself also feels very pleasant on the skin. Saltwater system: pool disinfection with salt instead of chlorine A salt system offers a high-quality alternative to classic chlorine. You can greatly increase the quality of your pool water - because : virtually no more combined chlorine in your pool water the amount of cyanuric acid no longer increases steadily In case you're wondering what cyanuric acid is - it is a classic pool chemical added to pools to stabilise chlorine. The problem is that it doesn't break down on its own. The amount of cyanuric acid in your pool builds up steadily over the course of the pool season and, beyond a certain level, it is bad since too much chlorine will get buffered and the effectiveness of the disinfection process decreases. No cyanuric acid gets into your pool with a salt water system - you have to add it manually, giving you full control over the amount that does get in your pool. A small amount of chlorine stabiliser will certainly be helpful since it helps sodium hypochlorite from the saltwater system to work more evenly over a longer period of time. It is also protected from UV radiation in the buffered state and makes the disinfection more even. How to turn your pool into a saltwater pool? You will need the following to effectively disinfect your pool water against algae, viruses, bacteria and the like: a salt system for salt electrolysis salt to make saltwater pH reducer or pH raiser Pool tester / water tester optional: chlorine stabiliser to adjust the CYA value optional: test strips for salt content depending on the chlorinator model: algae prevention Which salt system to use Intex has a large selection on offer. There are differences depending on the model: Salt water systems for small pools Medium and large salt systems Sand filter systems with salt water system The smaller systems are designed for use with small and medium-sized pools only. Adding an algaecide is essential here. On the other hand, adding an algaecide is not absolutely essential in medium and large stand-alone devices such as the Intex Krystal Clear salt water system (up to 26,500 litres) and salt systems combined with a sand filter system - provided you always keep an eye on your pool water parameters and know how to react correctly in case of problems. Do not oversize your salt system! It is important that disinfecting your saltwater is done evenly over a longer period of time. Excessive sudden bursts of sodium hypochlorite production can result in high amounts of free chlorine at the time of application which then reduces several hours later to levels that make it ineffective at disinfection. Use a salt water system that disinfects over several hours evenly. For instance, if your pool has a volume of only 5m³, then the Intex Krystal Clear Saltwater System QS200 would be a much better choice than the more powerful CS3200 model. Even if products with high performance are good in other areas, it does not apply in this case. Comparison: Amount of active substance by electrolysis depending on the model Salt system QS200: 2 g sodium hypochlorite per hour Salt system CS3200: 4 g sodium hypochlorite per hour Saltwater system 26668 (up to 26,500 L): 5 g per hour Saltwater system 26670 (up to 56,800 L): 12 g per hour Combination system Krystal Clear 6 m³ : 7 g per hour Combination system Krystal Clear 8 m³ : 11 g per hour Some pool owners use a large chlorinator like the Intex 26670 for small pools. Let's consider a frame pool with 8m³ of water. If this salt system were to run for a long time, you would have an excess of sodium hypochlorite in your saltwater pool. You will be forced to run it for very short periods of time. This is a disadvantage because the water in your saltwater pool should be disinfected evenly over a longer period of time. Example: An 8m³ pool For an 8m³ pool, the Intex QS200 will give you the best results. The device can be allowed to run for long periods of time and will ensure that microorganisms in your pool are constantly kept under control. Especially when used in combination with a little chlorine stabiliser. Sometimes less is more! How to turn your pool water into saltwater For your salt system to work effectively and to avoid the use of pool chemicals, you must ensure a salt concentration of 3 parts per thousand in your saltwater pool. You can use normal salt or sea salt specially approved for electrolysis. The salt you use should have the following properties: very pure (99.5% sodium chloride or more) free of additives non-iodised, free from dyes One of the products in our range is Steinbach Sea Salt, available in 25 kg bags. The purity of the salt is 99.6% and is ideal for salt electrolysis. Adding salt: not too much and not too little Follow the manufacturer's specifications. For Intex salt systems, the ideal amount of salt is 3 parts per thousand. That's 3 kg of salt per 1,000 litres of water. Try to maintain this concentration at all times because saltwater systems do not work if the salt content is too high or too low. If the salt concentration differs minimally (e.g. 2.8 or 3.2 instead of 3.0 parts per thousand), then your salt system will forgive you - super precision is not required. 3 tips to keep the water in your saltwater pool crystal clear 1) Monitor pH values regularly We can't stress this point enough: the pH value is the most important parameter of your pool water. Problems can quickly arise if you don't measure the pH value regularly because pH values tend to rise or fall. You can only act if you know what the value is. The pH value of your pool water should be kept between 7.0 to 7.4 failing which the following problems could arise: irritation of the skin and mucous membranes reduced flocculation performance corrosion collapse of the disinfection process Beginners should measure the pH daily and adjust if necessary. Only experienced pool owners should keep the intervals between measurement 2) Keep your saltwater pool covered when not in use The cleaner the water in the pool, the easier it is to disinfect the pool. In addition to running your pool filter system for longer, we recommend keeping your pool covered when not in use. This ensures that less dirt gets into your pool which lessens the burden on your sand filter system and allows sodium hypochlorite to be more effective because it has to deal with fewer particles. But there are two more important advantages to using a pool cover or dark solar cover: lower light levels slow down the growth of algae because they need it for photosynthesis it minimises exposure to UV radiation which in turn reduces the loss of large amounts of sodium hypochlorite 3) Pool water in motion = a big plus Microorganisms love warm pool water that is still. They can explode in numbers if there is not enough sodium hypochlorite or if the pH value is too high. Many saltwater pools have turned into a cloudy microbial soup from one day to the next. Many pool owners use very powerful filter pumps and run them for short periods of time even in midsummer, believing that the high performance of the filter system makes this sufficient. In our experience, this can lead to serious problems. If you keep your water moving, it will slow down the growth of microorganisms. This gives you an additional buffer in case the water values in your saltwater pool start to deteriorate. Your saltwater pool at Pools.Shop We have a few complete sets on offer. But you can also put together your own set for a saltwater pool with the help of this guide. We always have attractive offers for you at top prices delivered to your door quickly. <![CDATA[Solar Pool Heating - Solar Collectors for Pool Water Temperatures of 30°C and More!]]> 2023-02-15T00:00:00+01:00 2023-02-15T00:00:00+01:00 https://www.pools.shop/en-UK/info/magazine/solar-pool-heating-solar-collectors-for-pool-water-temperatures pools.shop uk@pools.shop https://www.pools.shop/en-UK Solar energy to heat your pool: advantages and disadvantages Solar energy is an economical and environmentally friendly way to heat your pool water. Let's take a look at the pros and cons of solar collectors for pool heating: Pros: very effective way to heat pool water in good weather with a lot of sunshine many models of solar collectors are available at low prices maintenance costs are very low to none, depending on the circumstances best heating results when combined with a pool heat pump suitable for extending the pool season Cons: very low performance when it is very cloudy the back pressure affects the performance of the pool filter system take up a lot of space for solar collectors that are mounted on the garage or the roof of the house: strong back pressure and higher power consumption compared to solar pool heaters on the ground Solar pool heating can be very effective when used properly. Note, however, that this is only true if your solar collectors are large enough. Solar pool heating: more is better! If you want a heated pool on more than just hot midsummer days, we strongly recommend that you size your solar panels appropriately. You have to take into account that water can store a lot of heat. Conversely, this means that pool water is difficult to heat up. To make matters more complicated, we are not talking about heating up a couple of litres of water - it's usually thousands or even tens of thousands of litres! It is important to keep in mind that a solar pool heater faces a mammoth task if it is to increase the water temperature in your pool noticeably. It requires a large amount of energy. Which is why you will only get good results if you size your solar collectors appropriately for your pool size. What does the sun do? It is very important to be able to estimate how the sun's energy affects your pool and the solar panels. Irrespective of the ambient temperature, the sun radiates between 900-1,200 watts of gross energy per square meter when the sun is high in a cloudless sky in summer. Objects absorb different amounts of heat depending on their surface area, material and colour. You should subtract 20-60% of radiation from the theoretical gross value. A pool itself can absorb around 40-55% of the sun's energy (because the light is refracted several times in the water) while solar collectors absorb around 70-80%. However, even light clouds or light shadows quickly reduce solar radiation by 30-60%. Very strong shadows or intense clouds cause the performance to drop by up to 95%! The key points to consider in a solar pool heater Let's assume that your pool has a surface area of 12m². The surface area of the side walls of the pool should also be taken into account (you can assume an efficiency of 20 to 30% here). On a very sunny and cloudless day, you can expect a net solar radiation of 6-8 KW including the side walls. If you were to connect a solar pool heater with a surface area of 0.34m² (such as the Steinbach Solar Snail), it would add another 300 W. That's good but hardly noticeable. If it is slightly cloudy, the solar radiation absorbed by the pool itself drops to 3-4kW while the Solar Snail would only provide 150 W. With an efficiency of approx. 80%, this is simply not enough to heat your pool noticeably. Our recommendations for warm pool water On really sunny days, the water in the pool can reach 28°C on its own. Your solar heating should be able to achieve more than 30°C on good days and about 26°C on mediocre days. As mentioned earlier, a swimming pool has a large surface area and therefore absorbs a significant amount of energy from the sun. You should also take into account the energy absorbed by the side walls of an above ground pool. However, if your solar collectors are undersized, the overall effect on your pool water temperature will simply not be significant. A good solar pool heater does not have to be expensive! The good news is that you can do a lot even with a relatively small budget. Solar mats, in particular, are a type of solar collector that give you a large collector area at a reasonable price. Although these are not quite as efficient as solar snails, they offer significantly more collector area for a comparable amount of money. Let's stay with our previous example: If you go with a Steinbach Speedsolar Solar Mat 0.7 x 3.0 m, you get an impressive 2.1 m² of surface area. If it is not angled, the efficiency will drop to around 70%, but the large area will still give a huge amount of energy. Comparison of the absolute heat output between Steinbach solar mat and solar snail Under ideal conditions, the following performance can be achieved: Solar snail: 300 W Solar mat 0.7 x 3.0 m (optimally angled): 1,750 W Solar mat 0.7 x 3.0 m (not angled): 1,570 watts With slightly cloudy weather: Solar snail: 150 watts Solar mat 0.7 x 3.0 m (optimally angled): 870 watts Solar mat 0.7 x 3.0 m (not angled): 780 W Let's compare that with the pool's natural heat absorption. Under ideal circumstances, this is a maximum of 8,000 W and with a little cloud cover, a maximum of 4,000 W. While the effect of a solar snail is barely noticeable, the yield from solar mats is siginificant. And that too, for a manageable amount of money. So how much collector area do you really need? We refer to the recommendations of the pool expert Benjamin Garherrs, who makes the following general recommendation in his article about solar pool heaters : For pools up to 80 cm water depth, the collector area = 18-20% of the water surface area For pools up to 100 cm water depth, the collector area = 25% of the water surface area For pools with more than 100 cm water depth, the collector area = 30-35% of the water surface area Note: These numbers are intended as a rough guide. Poorly insulated pools, uninsulated pools, or pools that get a lot of shade, will need larger solar collector areas. Solar pool heating: How to calculate the right size with an example Let's consider the 366 pool with a water depth of 90 cm. As per the recommendation above, the collector area needed would be 25% of the water surface area. Here we refer specifically to the water surface area and not the pool surface area. You could use the pool surface area to base your calculations, but we would like to determine the minimum necessary. Calculating the pool surface Our 366 pool is a frame pool and has a net surface of 346 cm. We use the formula: π*r² with r as 1.73 which gives us a surface area of approximately 9.4m² Dimensioning of the solar pool heating based on the pool surface ⇒ 25% of 9.4m² = 2.35m² collector area ⇒ this is the minimum required. Earlier we mentioned the Steinbach solar mat with a base area of 2.1m². This is slightly lesss than the minimum required. But since the difference is only 10%, it is acceptable. Or, you could supplement it with an Intex or Bestway solar mat and with their additional 1.44m² surface area, you will have the following ⇒ 2.1m² (Steinbach solar heating) + 1.44m² (Intex solar mat) = approx. 3.5 m² total surface area. Comparison: How you can influence the water temperature Using this setup, with 3.5m² collector area, you can achive an input of about 3,100 W on very good days. With light clouds you can expect about 1,550 W. This is definitely worth the investment and will help you crack the 30°C mark noticeably on a few days. But a water temperature of 30°C is not feasible with this setup on not so good days or with cooler air temperatures. More is not enough? In moderate temperatures, you will need an estimated 5,000-8,000 W of heat energy over the course of the day to bring your pool water to a temperature of 30°C or above. If there are many hours of sunshine with clear skies, this can be easily achieved with solar mats in our example. But if the sun doesn't shine all day long at the best angle, the total energy input will drop significantly. Let's take a 21°C day in the middle of August as an example. The duration of direct sunshine is shorter and the angle of the sun is lower. A few clouds here and there over the course of the day will reduce the amount of energy entering the pool water. We can estimate the following: energy absorbed by the pool: 2,200 W x 11 hours energy provided by the solar heating ( 2.1m² collector area => 1,100 W x 11 hours total input: 3,300 W (x 11 hours) That's just not enough for 30°C under these circumstances. Not even for 28°C. Especially not when pools tend to cool off for longer sue to longer nights. The optimal setup for solar pool heating: If you want to have higher water temperatures on less than ideal days, you will have to install more solar panels and insulate your pool well. Because the cooler air temperatures and windier conditions will lead to increased heat loss. The goal here will be to expand your existing solar collector area and optimise thermal insulation on your pool. a) Thermal insulation Even if you feed significantly more heat into your pool you will still have trouble keeping your pool water warm if your pool is not insulated. You can take the following measures to reduce heat loss: use a solar pool cover. This gives you great results at a low price. place insulating products such as pool mats or even XPS panels under your pool. Note that XPS panels are not easy to install and should be protected from pressure points loads with click vinyl. you can insulate the walls of a steel wall pool with a 2 cm layer of styrofoam which will significantly reduce the heat lost through the walls You can also use a transparent pool cover such as the Cabrio Dome. Combine two (or more) of these measures for better results. One measure alone will not be enough to extend the pool season noticeably. b) More solar collectors You can extend your pool use season by a few extra days and enjoy heater pool water with just 25% of the collector area. Good thermal insulation will add a few more days. But if you want to enjoy warm pool water even on less than ideal days and cooler days, then 25% will not be enough - it will have to be 50 to 120%. 50% may suffice for pools with a water depth of less than 80 cm but pools with a water depth of 150 cm would require 120%. What are the advantages of an even larger solar heating? Let's recalculate the surface area for our example. We assumed a less than ideal August day and estimated the heat input to the pool to be 2,200 W. If we now resize the solar pool heating to cover 80% of the water surface, then we would arrive at a collector area of about 7.5 m². ⇒ the estimated heat output would be around 3,900 W from the solar collectors alone. Add to that the 2,200 W energy absorbed the pool itself and you will get around 6,100 W. That should definitely be enough for temperatures of 28-32°C! But you have to keep in mind that even this will not be enough with shortening days, decreasing air temperatures and bad weather. Supplementing your setup with a powerful heat pump will be necessary at an ambient temperature of 12°C and overcast skies. That's because the heat input can go down by 95% under these circumstances! Solar pool heating: what to expect There are only a few days during a normal summer in central Europe when pool water will reach temperatures of 28°C or even 30°C on its own without an additional source of heat. If you have a solar heating system of the minimum size required for your pool, that will be enough to give you a pool water temperature of 28°C to 30°C on a few additional days. Insulating your pool will add a few more days and will also help your pool water heat up faster. However, not even a generously sized solar pool heater can work wonders on cloudy or cold days. Advice on buying solar collectors We always have interesting offers - with speedy shipping, of course. Here are a few of the solar collectors in our range: Steinbach Speedsolar Solar Collector: maximum efficiency per collector surface; however, only a small collector area. Ideal when you have very little space and want maximum yield. Steinbach Speedsolar Solar Mat: Available in different sizes. Such a solar collector offers a lot of collector area for the money spent. A very good choice if you have plenty of space and have a limited budget. Intex Solar Mat: Very economical. This solar heater has a floor area of approx. 1.44m². It is perfect for forming clusters of 4, 6 or 8 pieces which will collect a large amount of solar energy. Disadvantage: the quality is rather low. Steinbach Solar Collector Exclusive: This is our bestselling solar collector. It features a chic design and is very well made. This solar collector offers a collector area of about 0.8 m². This is great choice if the aesthetics and high quality are important to you and you are willing to pay more than you would for comparable solar mats.